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Plant profile · Epiphyte plants

Anubias nana

Anubias nana is the toughest epiphyte plant: low light, no CO2, how to tie it to driftwood or rock, why never to bury the rhizome and how to propagate it.

By The AcuarioSano Team Updated on 2 min read
Anubias nana (Anubias barteri var. nana)
Photo: Carlosar · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Wikimedia Commons

Quick facts

Anubias barteri var. nana

Scientific name
Anubias barteri var. nana
Origin
Africa
Difficulty
Easy
Temperature
72–82 °F (22–28 °C)
pH
6–7.5
Hardness (GH)
2–15 °dGH
Light
Low
CO₂
Not needed
Growth
Slow
Height
3.9 in (10 cm)
Propagation
Rhizome division

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Contents +

Overview

Anubias nana is the compact form of Anubias barteri, native to shady streams in West Africa, mainly Cameroon. It has small, oval, thick leaves in a glossy dark green that grow from a creeping rhizome, and it rarely gets taller than about 4 inches (10 cm).

It may be the hardest aquarium plant to kill. It tolerates low light, needs no CO2, adapts to a wide range of water and its leathery leaves are ignored by almost every fish, including many cichlids. That is why it is a favorite with beginners, in cichlid tanks and with anyone who wants driftwood and rocks covered in greenery that lasts for years.

Care and tank setup

The golden rule: never bury the rhizome. That thick horizontal stem the leaves and roots grow from will rot under gravel. Instead, tie it to driftwood or rock with cotton thread, fishing line or thin zip ties, or glue it with a drop of cyanoacrylate gel superglue. Within a few weeks the roots grip on their own. You can also wedge it between stones or bury only the roots, leaving the rhizome above the substrate.

  • Light: low to medium. Under strong direct light the leaves get covered in green spot algae, so place it in the shade of other plants or hardscape.
  • Flow: a little water movement helps keep the leaves clean.
  • Tankmates: it works with almost anything, from shrimp to African cichlids. Only large, heavily herbivorous fish damage it.

The classic mistake is planting it straight from the pot into the substrate: remove the rock wool and tie it down.

Fertilizing and trimming

Because it grows so slowly, it needs very little fertilizer: a comprehensive liquid fertilizer at half dose is usually enough, and in well-stocked tanks sometimes not even that. Yellow or see-through leaves often point to a lack of iron or potassium. Pruning is simply cutting old, torn or algae-covered leaves off at the base. Wipe dirty leaves gently with a soft brush.

Propagation

It propagates by rhizome division. Once it has at least 6 to 8 leaves, cut the rhizome with clean scissors or a blade, leaving three or four leaves and some roots on each piece. Tie each piece down separately. It also produces side shoots now and then, which you can detach once they have their own roots. Be patient: each piece takes a few weeks to push new leaves.

Recommended equipment

What you need to keep the Anubias nana healthy, checked against Amazon stock.

Aquarium LED lights 9.2 AcuarioSano rating: 9.2 out of 10
Aquarium plant fertilizers 9.2 AcuarioSano rating: 9.2 out of 10
Aquarium driftwood 8.8 AcuarioSano rating: 8.8 out of 10

Frequently asked questions

What light and CO₂ does Anubias nana need?+

Light: low. CO₂: not needed. Growth: slow.

Is it a good plant for beginners?+

Yes: it’s one of the easiest plants and forgives mistakes with light and fertilizing.

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